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One Amazing Fall

2012-01-26T13:28:00.001-08:00

This fall season might have been one of the best on record. There was a freak storm in late October, but after that it didn't rain until we got 5 inches last weekend. The highs were in the 40s and there was so much climbing going on, I really didn't get that much footage.

Enter Kyle O'Meara. A recent transplant from Washington, he had quite a fall season taking full advantage of the great weather and a his first season in a new bouldering playground. Now that he's done most of the classics, it time for him to start putting up some of his own!

Panic Room [v9] & King Air [v10]

Tom Sawyer [v10] & Pine Box [v10]

Heart of Darkness [v9], Good Vibrations [v11] & Diesel Power [v10]

The Force [v9], Wall to Wall Carpet [v9] & Bruce Lee [v8]

-Raza

Action Alert - Act today to help preserve bouldering in Yosemite

2011-12-14T12:02:00.000-08:00

TODAY IS THE LAST DAY the National Park Service is accepting comments on the Merced River Plan (MRP). Please follow this LINK and copy and paste the text below to help preserve bouldering access in Yosemite Valley. Please post comments to this post when you have submitted your comments, so I can stop bugging you!!

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* Please cut & paste the text below in the the first field * Alter or add as you like *

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Here are my comments regarding the Issues addressed in the Merced River Plan Workbook:

- Issue 7: I prefer option C - the only two options provided in the MRP Workbook to reduce river bank impacts at the Upper and Lower Pines Campgrounds are to eliminate or relocate campsites that are near the river. I believe that before these options are considered, efforts should first be made to fence and sign the areas of the riverbank to be protected, as has been done at Devil’s Elbow, and then design river access points in resilient locations and restore riparian areas to natural conditions.

- Issue 9: I prefer option B - more primitive / rustic camping should be created.

- Issue 10: I prefer option C - replace existing bridges with foot bridges designed to enhance the free-flowing condition of the river.

- Issue 12: I prefer option B - restore visitor use opportunities at upper and lower river campgrounds.

- Issue 15: I prefer option A - the installation of a roundabout and under-crossing for pedestrians to relieve congestion.

- Issue 19: I prefer option A - develop more camping to increase capacity.

- Issue 20: I prefer option D - the installation of a pedestrian underpass to allow access to Lower Yosemite Falls. Relocating the lodge entrance or an overpass don’t seem practical and won’t work.

- Issue 22: I prefer option D - the Merced River Gorge segment west of Pohono Bridge has a number of popular climbing areas, including Cookie Cliff, the Rostrum, Reed’s Pinnacle, Elephant Rock, and many others bouldering areas. Climber parking and approach access to these areas should be retained and improved to reduce impacts. Curbing to formalize parking areas may eliminate many parking areas for smaller climbing and bouldering areas that planners might not know about.

- Issue 23: I prefer option A - develop more camping to increase capacity

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* Please cut & paste the text below in the the second field * Alter or add as you like *

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As a climber who boulders in Yosemite Valley frequently, here are some additional thoughts:

- The bouldering in Yosemite Valley is universally regarded as some of the best in world. The unique combination of rock quality, rock features, boulder sizes and quantity make the bouldering in Yosemite an Outstandingly Remarkable Value (ORV) that should be protected. Additionally, climbing has a long a significant history in Yosemite Valley.

- Bouldering requires a large amount of gear that makes using shuttle services impractical. Therefore maintaining and increasing the level of recreational parking is critical.

- The bouldering at Camp 4 is considered the birthplace of modern bouldering and has the largest quantity of all the bouldering areas in Yosemite Valley. The site of the former gas station was previously used by boulders for parking but has since been used as a staging area for the recent road improvement projects. I strongly recommend this area be reconfigured into a day use parking when the road improvements are completed.

- The recent reduction of parking in the Ahwahnee Hotel lot has adversely effected climbers as there is a large bouldering area at the base of the talus field and many climbing areas (Royal Arches, etc) are access from this point.

- A permitted parking system would adversely affect those who boulder because of the quantity of gear required for our recreation. There are no reasonable alternatives to transporting the gear in our cars and parking near the bouldering areas.

- The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout the Valley and the Merced Gorge segments. Where appropriate, roadside parking should be paved to reduce impacts and moved off the shoulder to improve safety.

- More access options to lesser attractions in the Park and surrounding area rather than regulatory solutions such as day-use reservations, parking permits and closures. All reasonable day-use parking facilities should be developed or improved in the Valley, including Camp 6, Curry Village, and the wilderness parking lot.

Merced River Plan: Update

2011-11-18T15:38:00.001-08:00

Merced River & El Cap

Climbers interested in Yosemite issues should take a look at the MRP workbook and get your comments in by DECEMBER 14th (it was recently pushed back from November 30th). The Access Fund's positions on appropriate MRP planning alternatives are as follows:

Yosemite planners should work to reverse lodging/camping ratio (currently 60/40) to provide more camping and less emphasis on lodging (move lodging to the park boundaries). Providing more camping in the Park, and limiting lodging in the park to rustic/primitive accommodations, is consistent with the NPS's own management policies that promote visitors having a direct relationship to Park resources. Adjusting this ratio would also be more consistent with a national park instead of the luxury resort or amusement park that Yosemite often resembles.
Park planners should include in the MRP the several "improvements" for Camp 4 that were contemplated in Lodge Redevelopment Plan (which was stalled by the MRP litigation). These improvements include showers, fencing to encourage vegetation, limited loud bus noise, foul weather cooking pavilion and communal fire, and a nearby location for Ken Yager's Yosemite climbing museum. In addition to focusing on more camping in the Park, planners should also improve the quality of the camping experience, especially at locations such as Camp 4 where climbers are forced into highly dense and low-quality campsites. Planners should recognize the historic importance of this campground and improve some of the basic amenities such as the bathrooms.
Yosemite planners should restore as much camping as possible to sites that have already been disturbed such as the Pine and Oak lodging units and the Rivers Campground that were destroyed in the 1997 flood. These areas in particular could be engineered with the recognition that they will again be flooded. Plan maps should indicate flood plain areas where shallow flood depths and low water velocities make the development of campsites feasible. Planners should establish diversity of camping opportunities (including walk-in, walk-to, and a "drop-off" your gear but walk-in model) and not just limit opportunities to drive-in campgrounds (where RV generators, for example, impact the experience) or the ghetto at Camp 4. The Park should bring campsite numbers at least back to pre-flood totals as contemplated in Yosemite's General Management Plan (there's currently a shortfall of 300 campsites), but any new sites should be focused on placement in the East Valley so that the largely undisturbed areas west of Camp 4 don't also suffer from campfire smoke and new infrastructure.
The Park should ensure climbing needs are addressed in the MRP, particularly parking locations throughout Valley and the Merced Gorge segment (Cookie Cliff, Arch Rock, etc.).
Park planners should ensure that measures to restore or harden El Cap Meadow are not unsightly from above. The MRP should consider hybrid approach for boardwalk further west of typical climber use areas, and use fencing and other ways to focus people onto a few discrete paths into Meadow. The MRP should ensure that climbers can continue their traditional use of the Meadow.
Park planners should ensure that there is adequate day use parking while pursuing a range of transit strategies to reduce auto use in the Valley.
The Plan should include a noise control element that addresses noise sources such as idling tour buses, motorcycles, trash collection, RV generators, the Green Dragon touring flatbeds and others.

I'm still working on a "voter's guide" the the workbook. Look for that in a bit...

-Raza

Merced River Plan: NPS wants your feedback

2011-11-14T18:23:00.000-08:00

In case you haven't heard, the National Park service has been working on the Merced River Plan for many years now. They have been sued and had to rework the plan TWICE. If they don't succeed this time it is likely that congress will get involved and legislate a plan and nobody thinks that would be a good idea.

I am currently looking over the pdf workbook to come up with some "talking points" that should be included to support and enhance bouldering in Yosemite Valley. Hopefully, I'll have something in a week or so. Check out the links below if you want to get started. THE DEADLINE FOR FEEDBACK IS NOVEMBER 30TH.

This is the NPS link for information:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/mrp.htm

This is the link to the workbook:

http://www.nps.gov/yose/parkmgmt/upload/Merced-Wkbk-web_interactive.pdf

Looking for other ways to help? Here is a short list:

Look over the workbook and post suggestions of good ideas on BetaBase
Encourage friends and family to do the same
Spread the word on facebook / twitter / climbing blogs / etc.
Join the Access Fund
Donate to the Yosemite Climber's Association

-Raza

11-7-11: Post Send Depression

2011-11-07T14:57:00.000-08:00

Paul Barraza on Post Send Depression [v7]

Here is a problem that was hidden in plain sight. Located on the B1 boulder at Sentinel just between the Jungle Book and the down climb. Perhaps the two-tiered landing was a deterrent, but with the right pad setup, it is pretty safe.

The problem climbs up a faint dihedral using an unusual assortment of holds. The only downward facing holds are at the top, and they are unnervingly slopey. (hence my fear scream at the top - doh). I'll be honest, the rock is not the best, but once this thing cleans up it could possibly be a classic? Bring a bunch of pads and decide for yourself!

-Raza

11-6-11: Riverside Rock Update

2011-11-06T14:35:00.000-08:00

Justin Alarcon on Budōkan [v9] at Riverside Rock

We checked out Riverside Rock a few weeks back and I thought an update would be appropriate. Thanks again to Ryan Alonzo for sending in the information that was used to create a previous post.

All the problems on the east face of this boulder are really fun. (We didn't try the problems on the other side) The climbing holds are bigger than average and the wall is steeper than average, making for some fun, gymnastic climbing. I would recommend stopping there on the way home some day, as it is right off the road.

For those of us who climbed there, we thought the grades were a little off, compared to the rest of the valley. Here are the grades from our limited consensus:

Karate: v8

7up: v5

Capoeria: v5

Balance of Opposites: v6

Budōkan: v9 (Justin added the sit start to Karate)

I contacted Jacob Copeland, a longtime valley developer and it turns out he climbed all the lines a few years back!! He didn't name anything and thought the names that Justin and Ryan came up with were great. He also said that he put up a sit start to 7up - though I have a hard time visualizing how the sit start would link into that problem.

-Raza

8-4-11: Back to the Future

2011-08-04T08:54:00.000-07:00

Tim Medina on Notta Traverse [v7]

Way back in 2005, Andres Mueller told me about a cool new boulder near the Saddle Boulder in Tahoe. He had done a cool problem called Back to the Future, v9 and said there was much more potential, hence the name: The Future Boulder. I checked it out and soon showed Scott Frye and Tim Medina, who did much of the development.

To get to the Future Boulder, drive through the tunnels as you would to get to the Saddle Boulders. After you get through the tunnels, there will be a road off to the left. Sometimes the road is blocked by boulders after a few hundred feet so you may have to park right there but you might be able to drive down to the boulder. Either way you get there, go down the road and the boulder will be on your left just before a wood bridge. The boulder is hard to see from the road, but it is there.

LEFT SIDE

1. Warm up, v0

2. Notta Warm Up, v2/3 Sit start to the warm up.

3. Notta Traverse, v7 Start at the right side of the large shelf and follow the crack system left.

4. Blast from the Past, v3 Climbs center of the face, high and committing

5. Slippery Slope, v6 The crux is getting established on the slippery slope...

6. Super Slippery Slope, v8 Start as for Back to the Future and climbing into Slippery Slope.

7. Back to the Future, v9 Start of left side of big shelf, climb up and right to a good shelf.

RIGHT SIDE

Daniel Soto eating the cookie. He was the inspiration for Marley Marathon

8. Super Crimper Roof, v? Project

9. Name Unknown, v9 Start on shelf and finish at the lip, really cool moves.

10. Direct Finish Project, v? The slab finish to #9, will be a mega classic.

11. Lucky Charms, v10 Start on #9, go right at the lip and finish on Marley Marathon.

12. Marley Marathon, v5 Start sitting on a shelf, climb up diehedral and surmount bulge.

Enjoy!

-Raza

7-28-11: Riverside Rock

2011-07-28T21:56:00.000-07:00

A short video by Ryan Alonzo

I got an email a while back from Ryan Alonzo with a link to the above video. This isn't a boulder that I've seen before, but it looks pretty cool. I talked to Jacob Copeland and it turns out that he had previously climbed some of the lines, so it would be interesting to hear his names / grades for the ones he did. Thank you Ryan for putting this together!!

Here is the info:

Directions: On northside drive about 1 mile west past el cap meadow there will be a paved pullout on the lefthand side of the street that is a view point for Bridalveil falls. Park at the first dirt pull out on the left past the view point. The boulder is next to the road 2 min walk west of pull out.

6-1-11: Aphrodite

2011-06-01T22:36:00.000-07:00

Raza on Aphrodite [v5]

Here is a great line that was put up this last winter. This was the last installment from the Crumbs, the bouldering area below the Cookie Cliff. It was hard to come up with a grade, since I am not a great crack climber. I managed to wedge my fingers just long enough to send the thing!

Thanks for the vid Scott!

-Raza

4-13-11: Bipolar

2011-04-13T10:49:00.000-07:00

Raza on the first ascent of Bipolar [v7]

Here is another climb from The Crumbs and this one is right next to (facing) First Act. The problem is fiendishly simple: dyno then mantle. But once you try it, you find out quickly that it is not so simple...

-Raza

3-8-11: First Act

2011-03-08T16:25:00.000-08:00

Paul Barraza on the FA of First Act [v8]

Things are getting a bit stale around here, so here is some footage of a first ascent I snagged between snow storms this winter. It is in the area we have dubbed the "Crumbs" as they are the base of the Cookie Cliff. There are a few established problems in the area that are cool as well.

The problem starts sitting on a good sidepull feature and finishes on a good rail about 12' up. It is called First Act because the 30 foot second act is yet to be done. (Kevin Jorgeson, are you reading this?) The finish would be tall and committing with a thin technical section right after the big rail, that would be maybe v4x on its own right.

-Raza

10-22-10: Four from the Valley

2010-10-22T09:31:00.000-07:00

Short video by Scott Chandler from his recent trip to the valley

Here is a list of the problems in the video:

Hammerhead, v5 @ Camp 4: committing top with a bad landing, bring pads and spotters (and a good head).

A Walk in the Park, v2 @ Cathedral: Another highball with a committing topout!

Quasimodo, v7 @ Cathedral: A new line that Scott just put up on the rim trail just west of the Cathedral boulder turn off. A tad reachy, but definitely an instant classic.

Unnamed, v9? @ Cathedral: An unnamed line with the same start as ladder detail, but head out right and then back left at the lip. Never heard a name or a grade, but it is probably about v9ish. Anyone know the name, or have any ideas for a good name??

Thanks for the video Scott!

-Raza

10-8-10: Mirror Lake

2010-10-08T13:19:00.000-07:00

Colton working a short-lived project (Sweat Lodge)

Last June, valley local Colton Lindeman was nice enough to tour Scott Chandler and myself around some boulders he had been developing. The Mirror Lake boulders are a new area with plenty of potential. Here are some pics from our tour:

The warm up boulder

Colton on a cool arete Hobbit [v3]

Colton on the highball arete Dead or Alive [v8]

Scott on the FA of a new line (Sweat Lodge)

Colton on a short and steep v6, one of the few problems that was established before his development.

Colton trying a project close to Mirror Lake.

To get to the Mirror Lake Boulders, park at the stables and hike out the paved road. Turn left at the fork in the road and turn right after 100 feet or so. That will take you to the warm up boulder. The rest of the boulders are all behind that, but because everything is so jumbled, it is impossible to give precise directions. Just go and have have fun exploring!

-Raza

5-20-10: Cilley

2010-05-20T20:01:00.000-07:00

Theo Merrin climbing Cilley [v10]

Here is another not-so-hidden gem, this time at the Ahwahnee Boulders. This one is on the main Ahwahnee boulder only about 10 feet from the parking lot, so don't worry about hiring Sherpas. Sit start on a obvious rail and climb through intense moves all the way through the top-out. Surmounting the lip is harder than it looks, so don't let down your guard!

Theo Merrin from Colorado climbs Cilley in this video and I was super psyched to shoot him sending all the classics on a recent trip. More to come!

-Raza

4-28-10: Seams So

2010-04-28T18:16:00.000-07:00

Theo Merrin climbing Seams So [v8] at the Sentinel Boulders

As important as the Merced River Plan is, it is time for a new post. Some of you might be be wondering about the lack of updates recently. I dropped my camera off at a repair shop in October, and the owner skipped town/fell off the face of the earth shortly thereafter. After 6 months of trying to get my camera back, Lyn was nice enough to get me a new one for my birthday. Thanks Lyn!!

Seams So is an obscure problem on the B1 Boulder in the Sentinel Boulders. I hadn't given it much though until recently because I initially thought it finished straight up the scary slab. It turns out that it traverses to the right arete, a much saner option. So if you have already done No Holds Bard and Slapshot, give this one a try.

-Raza

01-29-10: Merced River Plan

2010-01-29T13:49:00.001-08:00

Have you or your friends ever enjoyed a good day of climbing in Yosemite? If you ever have, I strongly encourage you to take action. See below:

We need your help to influence the latest Merced River Plan, which could restrict climbing access and camping in Yosemite Valley, depending on how the Park prepares its new revised user capacity program. At issue is access to iconic climbs including those found on The Rostrum, Cookie Cliff, and Middle Cathedral Rock (everything ¼ mile on either side of the river). This plan will also affect all travel through the management area to locations just outside the river corridor, which brings into play all climbing in Yosemite Valley including El Capitan and even Half Dome. Another consequence of this litigation is the increased likelihood that camping will become even more scarce while the number of lodging units remains largely unchanged.

Please write Yosemite National Park by February 4 and support the preservation of climbing access in the Valley! With our easy-to-use letter writing tool, it only takes two minutes to make your voice heard.

Thanks for your support,

Your Friends at the Access Fund

www.accessfund.org/action

1-16-10: Kumba

2010-01-22T13:13:00.000-08:00

Scott Chandler climbing Kumba, v9/10 @ Camp 4

For all you slab lovers, this post is for you. Word on the street is that Dean Potter originally climbed Kumba and called it v8. After many years, a few other climbers repeated it, and in the process the climb was upgraded to v11. Recently, Randy, Paul, and I managed to make it to the top of this gem and while I am skeptical of the v11 grade, it is truly hard in that it requires the utmost in technique, balance, and 100% trust in your feet.

This amazing slab faces up-valley on the energy boulder in camp 4 and can be found by walking up the falls trail; go slightly past "king cobra" then head left. Bring your best shoes and a few pads because the last move is a committing dyno. Enjoy! -Scott

12-14-09: Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils

2009-12-09T23:09:00.000-08:00

Just up the hill from the big boulder at the Woodyard lays another big boulder. In addition to 'Chicken Nugget,' this boulder offers something most of the others at the Woodyard don't...warmups! Once warmed up one should try the new addition, 'Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils' [v8?]. Unfortunately the video was started a little too late to catch the first move. Its not very difficult so don't worry about it too much, but for clarity's sake, one begins crossed with a left hand on a good edge and a right hand on a smaller triangular shaped edge. Here's Raza making the first ascent courtesy of the very generous Rebecca Trafecanty.

Oh yeah, please ignore the guy stuffing his face while pretending to spot.

-Justin

Teenage Mutant Ninja Gerbils from Princess on Vimeo.

10-29-09: 601

2009-10-29T11:25:00.000-07:00

Paul Barraza on the FA of 601 [v8]

The El Cap Boulder is a solitary boulder found near the parking at the "Devil's Elbow" along Northside Drive. The established problems on this boulder are tall, crimpy, and of very high quality. This past weekend a new problem, which had somehow lain dormant all this time, was added to the boulder. Paul and I cleaned the obvious arete to the left of Zodiac [v10] thinking a compression problem would be a nice contrast to all of the crimping on the boulder. It turns out 601 is more of a complimentary piece than a contrast.

As usual these days, Paul was the first to make his way to the top with Scott and myself close on his heels. Thanks to Scott for providing the video. In regard to the grade, [v8] seems to be fair, though it may feel a touch easier or harder depending on your height (typical).

-Justin

10-17-09: Do-bop

2009-10-20T08:01:00.000-07:00

Hey everyone! Do-bop is a great problem (one of the more interesting for the grade in the valley) located directly below Lower Cathedral Rock. This area doesn't get a lot of traffic but is easily accessible and has some very interesting rock. Check out pg. 38 of the Yosemite Bouldering guidebook for approach and problem description. There are several other lines in the immediate zone, the highlight of which is a hard to describe slopey lip traverse/ arete/ overhang called Squirrel [v6] that Jacob Copeland cleaned and climbed a couple years back. Stellar moves with amazing rock! Without further ado, here is a video of Natasha climbing Do-bop. Enjoy!
-scott

Natasha on "Do-bop" [v7] from scott chandler on Vimeo.

9-29-09 Nat's Traverse

2009-09-29T23:22:00.000-07:00

Before the start of the fall season in Yosemite begins in earnest, I'd like to share a video I shot earlier today of Rebekah Taggart climbing Nat's Traverse at Mortar Rock in the Berkeley hills. Nat's is one of the most coveted problems at Mortar, requiring power, excellent technique and, what is often in short supply among boulderers, endurance. Many climbers work this problem for months just to fall demoralizingly close to the end (again and again). It was inspiring to see Rebekah send this impressive testpiece and witness her amazing positive attitude and perseverance.

- Lyn

8-2-09: Leo the Lion

2009-08-02T09:10:00.000-07:00

Randy Puro on the first ascent of Leo the Lion [v9]

Here is another cool line on the Orion Boulder. This is just on the left side of that same face. This post will be brief because I am in South Africa right now - enjoy the video!

-Raza

7-5-09: One Inch Punch

2009-07-05T12:11:00.000-07:00

Randy Puro on the first ascent of One Inch Punch [v9]

Here is another cool problem near Orion on the Horse Trail. It is called One Inch Punch because the crux is a move where your hand only has to move a few inches! It is still the crux though.

-Raza

6-4-09: Orion

2009-06-04T17:12:00.000-07:00

Scott Chandler climbing Orion [v7/8]

Back in the beginning of the spring season when the snows were starting to melt - Scott Chandler took me out to a cool new boulder that he found right off of the Horse Trail to Mirror Lake. Although Scott got the first ascent by himself and only one pad, I would suggest bringing a few pads and a few friends. The top isn't hard, but you are pretty high up by then.

-Raza

5-23-09: Kudra

2009-05-23T09:04:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Kudra [v6]

It is Memorial Day weekend and the hordes have invaded Yosemite Valley. No, not just the hordes of tourists, but the hordes of mosquitoes as well! It is time to catch up on some posts from the spring valley season - so stay tuned!

Kudra is a cool arete up in Candyland that Matt Wilder put up a few years back. It has a scary tiered landing, but that is more of a mental crux than anything else since I have never seen anyone land on the upper tier of the landing. The climb culminates with a commiting move to a good jug a few feet below the lip.

-Raza

5-16-09: Orange Face- Revisited

2009-05-18T23:05:00.000-07:00

Watch it in HD

Randy Puro nabs the second ascent of the Orange Face [v10] at the Bridalveil boulders. Nice job Randy! See a previous post on Orange Face.

-Scott

5-6-09: Fluffy White Clouds

2009-05-06T11:46:00.000-07:00

Not a highball? Some Yosemite regulars would call this blasphemy. Others point to such fine problems as 'Tap Dance' [v10], 'Chocolate Bunny' [v6], and the 'Bear-Hug Mantel' [v4] as examples of how pleasant a little lowball action can be. To this end, I submit 'Fluffy White Clouds' [v5-7] for the community's approval. While it may not be as classic as the previously mentioned lines, it should be a nice addition to the Yosemite lowball circuit.

This problem is located on the small boulder adjacent to the 'Panic Room'[v9] boulder.

-Justin

4-15-09: Supervillain

2009-04-15T17:48:00.000-07:00

Last fall I cleaned a project on the same big boulder that hosts 'Diesel Power' [v10] in the Crystals area. I was able to manage a high start off of the adjacent boulder, which became 'Villain' [v4], but the full line remained a project. Yesterday, amidst some random April snow flurries, Randy established the full line in a last-go-of-the-day effort. Serious kudos!

Disclaimer: I am not a professional film maker and I didn't behave like one while recording the ascent, so please forgive the language, unnecessary commentary, and shaky footage.

Supervillain from Princess on Vimeo.

In case you can't tell from the video, the landing on this problem leaves much to be desired. The most difficult part can be made reasonably safe with several pads but a fall from the upper section would result in hitting the granite slab and then tumbling into the log filled moat below.

-Justin

4-9-09: Skelton Problem

2009-04-08T20:44:00.000-07:00

Randy wondering, "what are we doing?"

Kind of a misnomer really, it should be 'Skelton Solo'. This problem was rediscovered, so to speak, on a pleasant morning last fall.

While a group of us were descending from soloing the classic 'Oak Tree Flake' [5.6] I mentioned to the group that there was a problem nearby listed in the old Don Reid guidebook as a [v8 X]. I was curious about the problem but I couldn't remember much of the details. I mistakenly thought it was called the 'Skeleton Problem' or 'Skull Problem,' but I new it was on the western end of the Swan Slabs. Unfortunately, the Swan Slabs area was omitted from the newest bouldering guide to Yosemite. Fortunately, there are a lot of fun warm-ups and technical faces to play on there so its worth a visit.

When the group returned to the base Tim and Randy returned to a tall slab that they'd been eyeing prior to my arrival. When I saw it I was certain that it was the enigmatic problem we'd discussed only minutes before. Clearly this wasn't a problem that saw regular traffic, in fact I wouldn't be surprised if it hadn't had a second ascent. Moss and lichen had grown over many of the holds (and non-holds) but there was clearly a line to be climbed.

The 'Skelton Problem' is basically three boulder problems in one. The first obstacle to overcome is establishing on the climb. The first "hold" is approximately 9 feet up the slab and once reached must be mantled without the assistance of any other holds. This is solved with a run-up-the-wall and jump method followed by a bit of grunting. The second mini-problem is a difficult slab section to another knob, this is probably the crux. The final bit isn't as difficult, but it is quite insecure and one finds their self quite height at this point, this is the mental crux.

Randy was the first to stick the jump and commit to the territory above. I think he chalked and re-chalked for a good five minutes contemplating the final slab while Tim frantically cleaned holds from above with a long bubba brush. Tim, Kevin, and I followed suit each managing to scare ourselves a bit despite the security of Randy's coattails.

Yours truly, preparing for the mental crux.

Randy executing, Tim cleaning.

The problem is named after a long time local climber by the name of Ron Skelton, 67. Ron and his wife Liz operate the Blue Butterfly Inn in El Portal, just outside the park. He was recently featured in Climbing Magazine No. 272 for being a cancer survivor with aspirations to climb 'Astroman' on the Rostrum this spring or summer. I recently asked Ron about the history of this climb and here's what he had to say:

"...a number of people had worked on that problem before I tried it, Dale Bard, Ron Kauk, and several others come to mind. No one was willing to go for it! They would do the mantle and look at the face and jump off. I had to clean it as I climbed, also I remember several loose edges that broke off as well. The hardest part for me was the mantle as I am 6'4" the face was in the 5.11 range I thought, but I don't know what others might think. I don't know much about the new rating system for bouldering."

His height would explain how he managed to reach the start of this problem with just a cheater stone. Of course Ron's height wouldn't have helped him much in the event of a fall from the top. I wouldn't want to take that fall with a stack of bouldering pads, he didn't have a single one!

As to the grade of this one...its a little irrelevant if you ask me. Its not [v8]. I think a Yosemite grade of [5.11 R/X] is probably more appropriate, but I wouldn't try this if you can't do 'Blue Sued Shoes' [v5]. The bottom line is; if you are looking for something a little more obscure and a lot spicy, check this one out. Just don't blame Betabase if you hurt yourself.

Photos courtesy of John Vallejo

-Justin

3-23-09: Raising Arizona

2009-03-23T08:32:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Raising Arizona [v8]

A couple of weekends ago we had really good temps in the valley. The snow had mostly melted out, but it hadn't gotten hot yet either.

I climbed at the Arizona Avenue boulder in Camp 4 for the first time and put up a sit start to Spanish Flies,v3. It starts squeezing a slopey arete and transitions into the spicy top out of Spanish Flies. Scott Chandler and Lyn Verinsky got quick ascents right afterward, check out the video of Lyn's send above.

-Raza

3-16-09: Two Bolts or Not to Be

2009-03-16T09:04:00.000-07:00

Randy Puro on Two Bolts or Not to Be [v10]

There are a few lines in the valley that we have found that would be under the "maybe someday" category. A line that you think about, but seems too out of reach to actually drag a crew down to try. Two Sundays agoand two years after first cleaning and scoping the line, we headed down to attempt to boulder a short Ron Kauk route down by the highway 140 entrance. I believe he did the first ascent in the mid-nineties, long before the era of big pads, but exact details are unclear.

The first part of the climb is a very technical arete which leads into a steep roof, the crux being sticking a dyno to a sloper and crossing to a good pinch. The last move wouldn't be very hard if the move was a few feet off the ground, but becomes very committing when when you have to heel hook at hand height (making you totally horizontal). At that point your back is about 18 feet above the pads.

The climb was still a little wet from the melting snow, but Randy stuck with it and by the end of the day it had pretty much dried out. More impressive, his heel flew out at the crux and he took a screamer of a fall, but he kept trying, culminating with the send captured above.

-Raza

3-9-09: Secrets of the Beehive

2009-03-09T08:00:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Secrets of the Beehive [v6]

During the rain & snow of winter we make the trek out to Bishop to get our bouldering fix. In January we headed out the Secrets of the Beehive area to try the classic of the area: Secrets of the Beehive. A flake has broken off in the middle of the climb, raising the grade a notch, but the mental crux is still at the top!

-Raza

3-2-09: Montezuma's Revenge

2009-03-02T18:41:00.000-08:00

Scott Chandler on Montezuma's Revenge [v9]

We just ran a poll to name the problem left of Montezuma's Revenge, but after a quick search I realized there is no post for Montezuma's Revenge! This problem is one of the coolest sloper problems in the valley. The lower sequence is quite intricate and not that obvious, so study the video closely!

Montezuma's is basically a low start to Rubik's Revenge [v7], and diverges left along the slopey lip. The stand up problem goes at v8 and the low start adds a grade for both problems. The low start into Rubik's has been done since Montezuma's, but was never named as far as I know.

To do the problem, start on the crimps at the top of an obvious flake (not a true sit start), climb up and right to the blocky sidepull start for Rubik's, climb up to the lip and finish left.

-Raza

2-9-09: Name this v4 (The Payback)

2009-02-09T15:00:00.000-08:00

Andrew Descalso on the The Payback [v4]

A new president was recently inaugurated and in the spirit of democracy, I thought it would be cool to have the people vote on the name of a boulder problem. The arete to the left of Montezuma's Revenge was put up in the same time frame, but we failed to name it even though it is a worthy problem in its own right.

The other two problems on the boulder are Rubik's Revenge and Montezuma's Revenge.

Register your vote on the poll to the right. Let your voice be heard! If you think of one of your own, click 'other' and add a comment to this post. The polls will close February 23rd; don't be disenfranchised.

-Raza

Update: 3-2-09
Polls closed and 'The Payback was the winner. Below are the results.

1-23-09: Spiceberg

2009-01-23T19:29:00.000-08:00

Raza on Spiceberg [v5]

Another cool line that went up this fall was Spiceberg. Ingar Shu, flashed the First Ascent which was not only pretty cool, but very prudent since falling at at the crux would most likely be bad for your health. The crux being some barn-door side pulls right below the good ledge. After getting on the classic Bishop highball Secrets of the Beehive, I realized that this thing is just as tall - if not taller. But the big difference on Spiceberg, is that you don't have to do that commiting heel hook by your head!

Spiceberg is on left side of the Curry Village tents. In that zone there is a huge boulder right next to the tents (where starfish is) and from that boulder you can see the Spiceberg boulder.

-Raza

1-5-09: Barrel of Laughs

2009-01-05T09:07:00.000-08:00

Scott Chandler on Barrel of Laughs [v6]

Here's another cool problem to check out after the snows melt and things dry up. Barrel of Laughs is up the hill from the main Bridalveil boulder and was put up by Noah Kaufman last spring.

Also Happy New Years from BetaBase. Let's hope that 2009 is a great year for climbing. May everyone send their projects!

-Raza

12-22-08: Ataturk

2008-12-22T08:24:00.000-08:00

Lyn Verinsky on Ataturk [v5]

Hidden on the far end of the main Bridalveil boulder, is a cool traverse (not always an oxymoron). It starts on underclings at the bottom of an unnamed seam problem (#6 on page 37 in new guide) but heads left on good holds and finishes on the v0.

Ataturk was named after Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the founder of modern Turkey. I'm not sure why that popped into my head, but he is a pretty amazing man.

As many of you all know, the valley is currently blanketed by a good layer of snow. It looks like it might be time to start heading to Bishop, or farther south if things don't start to melt soon. I guess it is a testament to how much I like the valley, when I won't totally give up on the season when the web cam looks like this!

-Raza

12-15-2008 Changing Corners

2008-12-15T20:53:00.000-08:00

For anyone who climbs in the Valley, these are dark times. The weather seriously crapped out on Friday, but even so, a hardcore group of us hit the road early Saturday AM in hopes that the reality wasn't as bad as the forecast. Receiving the message from a kind soul in the Valley that "it's wet, there's an inch of snow on the road and it's currently snowing" fifteen minutes out of Oakdale, we reluctantly turned around and headed home. The next couple weeks look grim: snow and rain.

So now what? Although I don't have any video footage of Drive On (isn't that one of the problems shown in that Dosage V movie?), I do have a couple clips of another awesome climb. Located on the same boulder as Shadow Warrior in Candyland, Changing Corners is an enigmatic piece of climbing that is greatly satisfying to unlock. It's all about one key sloper that feels incredibly insecure until your right foot gets about elbow level. Use the first video as a lesson on what NOT to do at the top. Amazingly, Mike was completely unscathed from his crazy fall and after taking a few more, only slightly less spectacular, diggers, sent the rig.

Mike Wickwire on Changing Corners [v8]

And now here's video of Tim Medina making it look easy with his impeccable Yosemite footwork and technique.

Tim Medina on Changing Corners [v8]

- Lyn

12-6-2008 Thanksgiving Sendfest

2008-12-06T17:31:00.000-08:00

Well, this past week has seen several ascents of some cool boulder problems and since it seems folks enjoy watching video, I'm posting 'em. Was it the ham and Thanksgiving festivities that brought on this onslaught of sendage? I'm not sure, but whatever the cause, the result was awesome to watch. First on the send rampage was Paul bagging Shadow Warrior in Candyland. Truly a beautiful boulder in a picturesque setting with lots of great energy from the crew! You all know about this problem from a previous post (here), so without further ado, here's the send: (love those scissor kicks!)

Paul Barraza on Shadow Warrior [v12]

Courtney got in on the boulder crushing as well by dispatching Zodiac [v10] and Tap Dance [v10] in short order. Zodiac is a crimpy face climb located on the El Cap Boulder along with such classics as Spock Was Here [v6] and some other reachy, dihedral climb whose name I can't recall at the moment (really classic, huh?). Anyway, it was an inspiring night send of a damn tall boulder problem so props to her! And I know Courtney would kill me for not mentioning that the send was much assisted by the outrageously good beta provided by crimp-meister Natasha Barnes.

Courtney Hemphill on Zodiac [v10] FFA?

Tap Dance is a slightly less inspiring line - okay, it's kind of a butt dragger and doesn't have any kind of line at all, but it's still darn fun climbing. Also in contrast to Zodiac, the crux moves are on slopers and technical heel hooks - super cool. It's a rare boulder problem in Yosemite that doesn't require a load of Organic pads to make safe, so for that alone, this problem is a gem. Located on the Wine Boulder, Tap Dance starts sitting matched on an obvious side-pull. Tall people should disregard the beta used below, but for shorties, it's pure brilliance.

Courtney Hemphill on Tap Dance [v10] FFA?

Finally, yesterday Paul ticked off a surprise send of Yabo Roof [v12] made famous in Dosage V. What an awesome climb! After being disappointed by it being wet the week before, we hiked out with some trepidation. Fortunately, all concern was immediately dispelled; conditions couldn't have been more ideal. So Paul, without a fuss, sent on his second try of the day. Sorry for my shaky camera-work, I have excuses, but I won't bore you with them. Kevin came incredibly close to sticking the crux sequence for a double send, but he opted to create more drama by waiting to dispatch. Yes, Justin, you would have run off to puke in the trees if you had seen how close he got.

Paul Barraza on Yabo Roof [v12]

- Lyn

12-3-08: Billy in the Wheel Well

2008-12-03T07:00:00.000-08:00

Patti Phillips on Billy in the Wheel Well [v4]

On the way into the valley it is easy to drive on by the Yosemite Speedway boulder, and I have to assume most people do -judging by the amount of pine needles I find on the top-outs. Well, the next time you are looking for somewhere different to warm up or hone your manteling skills, check out this boulder.

Billy in the Well is on the left side and starts on high edges and climbs through slopers to a spartan finish. There is also a sit start that goes at v7, but it is pretty darn lanky.

-Raza

11-26-08: Coffee Talk

2008-11-26T08:07:00.000-08:00

Lyn Verinsky on Coffee Talk [v3]

One last post before Thanksgiving to get everyone psyched for holiday sends.

If you wander over to the Lost Boulders to try plurality, you should also check out Coffee Talk, on a boulder just south of Plurality. Start this fun problem on two edges at head height, and climb into the arete and semi-spicy top-out. As you can see, only one pad is necessary.

Happy Thanksgiving!

-Raza

11-24-08: Orange Face

2008-11-24T20:20:00.000-08:00

The Orange Face, located at the Bridalveil boulders, is a new line that I climbed last weekend. Monica and I cleaned it earlier in the year and originally thought it would be a moderate. Haha...after trying it for the first time I realized it was in fact going to be quite difficult. The climb is short and powerful followed by a somewhat delicate slopey topout.

Directions: From "Barrel of Laughs" just turn around and you'll see it! From "French Quarter" walk southwest about a hundred yards; it's on the south face of a really large boulder and its orange!

Enjoy!

-Junior

11-17-08: Merganser

2008-11-17T09:18:00.000-08:00

The Common Merganser is a large sized duck that, if you are lucky, can be seen surfing the rapids along the Merced river in Yosemite Valley. It is also the name of a a new problem recently climbed by Kevin Cuckavich. The line is striking and tall. It follows the left arete but climbs more like a face problem.

To locate the problem park at the pullout for 'Highway Star' (a 5.10a traditional route) and cross the road. The problem is within spitting distance of the parking area and faces the river. The landing is flat but I'd recommend a few pads due to the height of the crux. Enjoy.

Ingar Shu on Merganser [v6]

-Justin

11-10-08: Cindy

2008-11-10T20:59:00.000-08:00

Kevin Cuckavich savoring the slopers

AKA: 'Sydnie' or 'The Elephant's Butt Crack.' This problem was originally climbed by visiting Brit, Sean Myles on top-rope. Sean had sustained a broken leg the year prior and did not have the benefit of using a crash pad, let alone many of them. The problem has been listed in the two versions of Yosemite bouldering guides as 'Sydnie,' but the problem was not often attempted and may not have been repeated...until this October when Randy Puro re-cleaned and climbed the problem sans rope.

Randy was so excited about this problem that he contacted Sean Myles to learn a little more about the history of the problem. This is what Sean had to say:

"Cindy (I believe that was how her name was spelled) was the name of a
bartender in the Mountain Room bar back then. I guess she may still be
around. The naming story went something like this: I'd been trying the
problem and was having trouble sticking the first move where you have
to hit that slot very accurately and I was telling people that the
first move was a bitch. Later the same day I'd tried to get a drink in
the bar without an ID and Cindy had refused to serve me and was
generally, well, a bitch to me about it. So, by loose association, I
named the problem after her. Subsequently I actually told her the same
story which she took very well. I guess she was just having a bad day
that first time."

So 'Sydnie' is actually 'Cindy'[v10], so respect the first ascentionist and get it right from now on!

Cheers,

-Justin

11-9-08: Panic Room

2008-11-09T11:37:00.000-08:00

Paul Barraza on Panic Room [v9]

Here is another great line that I realized was not on BetaBase. Last Spring Tim Medina put up a problem just west of the employee housing in Curry Village. Fun dynamic climbing leads into a slopey committing top-out. Good temperatures are key for the finish. Tim did it when the temps weren't all that great, hence the name!

To find the problem, park at the LeConte Memorial and walk towards curry. When you get to the employee housing, head up the hill into the woods and you will find the boulder.

-Raza

11-4-08: SFA

2008-11-04T09:00:00.000-08:00

Lyn Verinsky on Scott Frye's Army [v8]

Behind such notable climbs as Hero and Zero, hides another good problem called Scott Frye's Army. It starts on a blunt arete and climbs up a spartan face in classic Yosemite style: crimpy and technical. The first move sets the tone: a desperate slap from two bad side-pull slopers to a good edge. While the hard climbing is mostly in the beginning, it never really lets up, either.

To find the problem, walk around the Hero boulder and it is hard to miss.

-Raza

11-1-08: Cookie Monster

2008-11-01T17:11:00.001-07:00

Randy

In late August I found this line not more that 20 feet from the road. It's also not more than 20 feet from the Merced River. The rock is bullet, the landing is pretty good, and the setting is prime. I can't believe there are still unclimbed boulders like this here in Yosemite. The one drawback is that it faces due south, so I waited for cooler temperatures and a few friends to arrive before giving it a try. Kevin Cuckavich nabbed the first ascent and suggested [v6]. I did it shortly afterward using so different beta to avoid a massive reach and I thought it felt a bit harder.

If you are short you may have to do something crazy like this

Kevin topping out the first ascent

-Justin

10-24-08: Paralyzed

2008-10-24T08:26:00.000-07:00

Noah Kaufman on Paralyzed [v9]

One last Way Lake posting to wrap up the season. Jeff Sillcox sent his amazing high-ball project on the Talladega boulder. After we rustled together as many pads as we could find, he sent the thing on his second try. The line is basically a direct start to Drunk Chicken and climbs up the gently overhanging wall through consistently small crimps.

After sending, he literally packed up and drove out East on a road trip. Nothing like sending your project at the 11th hour!

-Raza

10-21-08: A Walk in the Park

2008-10-21T08:10:00.000-07:00

Raza on A Walk in the Park, v2 MORE PHOTOS

Scott Chandler found this cool line when we were warming up at some random boulders west of the main Cathedral Boulders. It is a thin face that has a very committing move at the end. (See right photo above.) Luckily, there is beta for people of the 5'2" persuasion to avoid the big reach.

To find the problem, hike the trail to the Cathedral Boulders but don't veer left - stay on the main Cathedral trail. You will see the problem from the trail on your right.

-Raza

10-08-08: Start of the Fall Season

2008-10-08T20:43:00.000-07:00

Rocktober: there's so much to love about this month, but nothing beats that first day back in the Valley after a four month hiatus. The temps were fine and we spent the day on nearly all new (to us) problems to get reacquainted with Yosemite granite after spending the summer on pale imitations. Here's a few videos of some problems at Curry.

Paul Barraza on Joe's Garage [v5]

On the other side of the boulder is another fun, and in my opinion, easier, climb called The Mechanic Direct that Paul insists on calling v5.

Paul Barraza on The Mechanic Direct [v5]

After the fun at Curry, we moved on to Paul's new problem, which has a post all of its own. In the same area is a new problem that Scott Chandler, a.k.a. Junior, put up a couple weekends ago; we're guessing the grade to be in the v3 range. Since we have video of that as well, here it is:

-Lyn

10-7-08: Plurality

2008-10-07T23:02:00.001-07:00

Paul Barraza on Plurality [v6]

My first new problem of the season is a line that I scoped out last spring, about when the mosquitoes were in full force. Junior and I tried it a couple of weekends ago but it was too warm. This last weekend was cool enough to sneak past the slopers for the FA. There is a hard man direct start to be done as well...

The problem is to the left of Cedar Crack in the Lost Boulders area of Yosemite and just to the right of "Miss Laid", a v2 on the 'v' feature. The problem starts on the bottom of the sloping rail and climbs right to the other angled wall to a rock-over move. The descent is the tree shown in the photos.

-Raza

9-30-08: Seasonal and There Goes the Neighborhood

2008-09-30T14:45:00.000-07:00

The first two problems I've established this fall season are not difficult but are both quite fun. They add to the warm up circuit around the Bridalveil Falls area. Pictured is Seasonal [v2], to the left is There Goes the Neighborhood [v2]. Both names are inspired by a less than neighborly exchange I had recently with one of the law enforcement rangers that lives across the street from me. Anyway, there is more soon to come!

-Justin

9-29-08: Black Buddha

2008-09-29T20:43:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Black Buddha [v8]

Here is another cool line on the Meadow Roof boulder. While they call it v8, I really didn't think it was that hard. After all, it only took me about 100 tries!

-Raza

9-12-08: Way Lake Trip

2008-09-10T06:00:00.000-07:00

Andrew Stevens on Meadow Roof [v8]

After checking out Justin's blog the other day, I saw that he climbed at an area called Way Lake near Mammoth. We headed out over the Labor Day weekend to see if the area climbed as good as it looked on the East Side Bouldering blog. Jeff Sillcox (of East Side Bouldering Blog fame) was nice enough to show us around, spot, give beta and repeat hard problems with no apparent warm up.

The climb above, Meadow Roof, was put up by Tim Steele a few years ago and is one of the most classic problems at Way Lake. Steep climbing with good holds, something you don't find too often in granite areas. The rock is reminiscent of Rocky Mountain National Park and is probably gneiss as well.

Randy Puro on Meadow Face [v9]

Across the 'meadow' from Meadow Roof is another Tim Steele classic, Meadow Face. The feet down low are very technical and the moves at the top are physical - culminating in a desperate throw to a decent pinch.

Randy Puro on Knife Dance [v7]

We warmed up near the bottom of the talus on our first day and an obvious line that drew everyone in was Knife Dance. The climbing is probably more scary than hard, but it is pretty hard to climb when all you are thinking about is the exit strategy. Only after getting comfortable with the moves, do you realize how fun they are.

Jeff Sillcox on the unnamed v6 at the 1-6-9 boulder

Off in the trees lies the 1-6-9 boulder, so named because the three problems on the boulder are rated v1, v6 & v9. The v6 doesn't have a name but should since it's so fun. Ugly Duckling [v9], to the left has a move where you finger lock and twist into a deep drop-knee - probably the first time I've ever done a move like that!

Directions are a little tricky. Go past Mammoth towards Lake Mary and follow signs for Cold Stream campground - park at the trail head in the back. If you have Google Earth, click HERE to see where Meadow Roof is.

-Raza

9-5-08: Little Blue Anastasia

2008-09-05T22:38:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Little Blue Anastasia [v8]

Here is a problem that I can't believe I haven't put on BetaBase yet. This is a classic problem put up by Randy Puro way back in the spring of 2005. The area is known as the Indian Caves and this arete is the highlight of the three aretes (The Misfit is to the right) that face half dome. I think it is classic because it exemplifies the uber-technical climbing that Yosemite demands.

To find this problem, park at the Ahwahnee's and hike towards half dome until you get to a big open area and the trail starts to head toward Mirror Meadow. At that point it will on your left right in front of the Indian Caves. Or just check out the guidebook!

-Raza

8-24-08: OK Corral

2008-08-24T22:30:00.000-07:00

Raza on OK Corral [v10]

We just got back from our trip to Squamish and it will be September in a few days... Can you feel the redpoint breeze just around the corner? Yes, fall will be here soon so the posts should be more frequent to get everyone psyched!

But back to the boulder problem, OK Corral is located just to the right of Tombstone. This fun, dynamic problem starts on two head-height slopers at the bottom of a dihedral. I'm not sure about the grade, but everyone agrees that it's pretty darn cool!

-Raza

8-16-08: Dogwood

2008-08-16T18:03:00.000-07:00

Randy on Dogwood, v12

Well, I guess you could say that the "the cat is out of the bag" in regards to Dogwood (Sorry I couldn't resist!) It was one of the problems featured on Josh Lowell's new film Dosage 5. There was a short featurette about valley bouldering that seems just slightly off the mark. But maybe that is just what it always seems like when you see a dose about your 'home' area.

Anyway, this awesome problem is at the Woodyard, easily seen from the road and so easy to get to a drunken driver could easily run right into the boulder! This blunt arete starts on an obvious jug rail and climbs sidepulls to an intimidating headwall. The last move is a desperate dyno to the lip where you have to slot your pinkie in the finish jug - just right.

-Raza

6-8-08: Live and Let Die & You Only Live Twice

2008-06-08T11:23:00.000-07:00

On the eastern edge of Curry village uphill from the tent cabins lies an incredible boulder with two stellar problems on it. The problems start on a steep face; one on the left, one on the right. The left and right lines share the same tall and committing top-out but both are still unique and equally fun. The right line, You Only Live Twice, was the first to go and is probably a v8. The day I sent it, it was quite dreary and started to rain as I was topping out. Needless to say the down climb was not much of a down climb at all but rather a slip n' slide. Don't worry though, when its dry the down climb is a piece of cake. I came back a few days later and climbed the left problem, Live and Let Die, which is a bit harder making it v9.

To find the boulder, park at the eastern end of the Curry Village parking lot and hike straight uphill a couple hundred yards. You will pass several large boulders on the way up. The problems are located on the east side of the boulder between two trees. Sorry for the lack of better directions; GPS coordinates coming soon.

Raza sending You Only Live Twice [v8].

Scott with the FA of Live and Let Die [v9].

Cheers!
-Scott C.

6-5-08: Tombstone

2008-06-05T12:45:00.000-07:00

Courtney on Tombstone [v9]

There has been a lot of development around the woodyard this spring. One of the original projects that helped start the development surge was found by Scott Frye in the spring of '07. He thought it would only be v5, but it rebuffed all attempts until Randy Puro got the FA in the late fall of that year.

The Tombstone boulder is located up the hill from the main woodyard boulder. There is an old road that you hike up and the boulder is on your left. Start the problem in a dihedral and climb up and right through crimps to an exciting topout.

-Raza

5-5-08: French Quarter

2008-05-05T21:29:00.000-07:00

Brian Hedrick with the FA of French Quarter [v7?].

Scott Chandler sticking the crux move.

Last year while exploring around the Bridalveil Falls area, I stumbled across an incredible boulder. It was not until this spring (just a couple of weeks ago) that I actually got around to inspecting it further and cleaning off the holds. The boulder is probably close to 30 feet tall, although the second half of the problem is very easy climbing. Here's how it goes down: Stand on a rock under the roof and start on a blocky jug. Climb up to a sloper on the arete, grab another sloper and throw for a crimp out on the face. Proceed to the top without falling. Brian Hedrick nabbed the FA and dubbed it French Quarter and we both thought v7 was a fair estimate for a grade. The approach is fairly simple: From the main Bridalveil boulder (the really big one near the parking lot) walk up the hill on a climber's trail. When the trail starts to flatten a little you'll see a large decomposing tree on the ground to your left. Walk along the tree and you'll see the boulder straight ahead. Bring your pads for this one and have fun!

4-28-08: Cougar

2008-04-28T21:23:00.000-07:00

Sunday's search for cooler temps and more moderate climbing found us at the Curry boulders. A fun day of climbing some classics and scrubbing new problems culminated in Randy's awesome send of a listed "project" in the Yos Bouldering Guide. Whether a first ascent or not, it was the proverbial cherry atop the ice cream sunday we talked about incessantly, but never stopped climbing long enough to get. Oh yeah, for those who want to know, I forgot to ask Randy how hard it was, so no v-grade yet.

This problem is located on the Zorro boulder. Same start, but a lot more direct.
-Lyn

4-28-08: Woodchuck

2008-04-28T21:10:00.000-07:00

Lyn on Woodchuck [v5?]

It's getting scary up here!

As if there weren't already enough reasons to start heading out to the Woodyard, Woodchuck, an excellent problem put up by climbing legend, Scott Frye, in the spring of '07, gives you yet more incentive. This devious and technical line is seriously committing at the top. More terrifying than difficult, it's all about finding the balance using fairly poor holds. It seems to be the inverse of Lumberjack, with the power moves low and the techy stuff up top. And since it was cleaned by the maestro himself, you won't feel like you're pimping moss. Give Scott a round of applause!

To the left of this problem, is another excellent Scott Frye creation: Sliver [v3]. Yes, it follows the trend on this boulder by being tall and scary, but topping out is sweet satisfaction. Start on a higher sidepull/rail feature, go left and then follow small crimps up right to an exciting slab finish. And for those who crank out v12, think of all of these climbs as a great warm up to the best line of them all: Dogwood. But more on that later.

-Lyn

4-28-08: Dream

2008-04-28T21:00:00.000-07:00

Noah Kaufman on Dream v10

Noah sticking the money move

How many times did I warm up at the Sentinel boulders, look at this problem and think to myself, "maybe I COULD use those crimps". After a handful of futile attempts, I would shake my head and walk away. Well, early last fall Noah caught sight of this line and didn't fool around with no stinking crimps. He took the big and powerful path, making the probable first ascent of a problem often contemplated, but to my knowledge, never completed. Dream was climbed for a second ascent (?) by Steve de Lucca a mere ten days ago.

-Lyn

4-27-08: Chicken Nugget

2008-04-27T18:29:00.000-07:00

Untitled from scott chandler on Vimeo.
Raza doing the second ascent of Chicken Nugget [v7?].

I saw this line a few of weeks ago out at the woodyard and the following weekend Paul and I went back to check it out again. We figured out the beta and both managed to send it. Its a fun problem with a large move and a top-out that lacks any decent holds. To find the boulder from the main woodyard boulder: Walk up an old road/path that heads uphill for a couple hundred yards...you will see the boulder after a few minutes on your right. Chicken Nugget starts to the right of a tree (on the downhill eastern side of the boulder) and climbs up to the nugget hold and on to the slopey top-out. Enjoy!

ps- if you click on here you can see the video in a larger format with better resolution.

-Scott

4-17-08: Wall to Wall Carpet

2008-04-14T07:33:00.001-07:00

Paul Barraza on Wall to Wall Carpet [v9?]

It's getting warmer these days so the other day we sought refuge by warming up at the main Bridalveil boulder. The guidebook lists many projects on the boulder and we got interested in a line facing the parking lot - but one that didn't quite match any of the described projects in the book. The bottom had obviously been tried but the top was very dirty. I managed to pull out the first ascent after discovering a decent edge out left. The rest is history.

To find the problem, park at the main Bridalveil Falls parking lot and hike to the big obvious boulder that you can see for the bathrooms. Wall to Wall Carpet is facing the parking lot.

-Raza

3-13-08: Retrofit & others

2008-03-13T08:43:00.000-07:00

Another two problems that were discovered, cleaned and climbed in short order are located on an unnamed boulder about 100 meters up from the Bridalveil Falls parking lot. Their discovery begs the question, "how many climbs have been found while searching for a good place to pee?" The first problem to go down sit starts in the obvious dihedral and climbs right with much awkwardness onto positive holds. Not to sound like sour grapes (since I was never able to escape out of the damn dihedral), but folks with a good arm span have a SERIOUS advantage here. In all fairness, tall folks in our group still used a tiny and rather heinously sharp crimp to gain the better holds out right, so it isn't all sunshine and roses being 5'10" and up on this problem. Paul named this line "Escape from Alcatraz" and Scott suggested a grade of v4, which besides hurting my ego, seems a bit sandbagged. Here's a video of Scott making it look at least v5.

The arete to the left is the problem that actually drew us to the boulder in the first place. The line is aesthetic and there are some obvious start holds. The one drawback is the tree directly to the left of the start, but by careful body placement, it doesn't get in the way too much nor pose a hazard in the fall. Here's a video of Paul on the attempt before his send. The move that he falls on appears to be the crux. The grade for "Retrofit" is in the ballpark of v7.

3-12-08: Hero & Others

2008-03-12T23:46:00.000-07:00

Randy Puro on Hero, v8

What a great weekend! Several new problems were established, the weather was beautiful and everyone in the crew finished a problem they'd never climbed before. One excellent new line that was done by Paul and Randy is called "Hero" from the sit and "Crouching Spotter, Hidden Sloper" from the stand. Located in the shadow of El Cap, this climb tackles a cool arete that has surprisingly fun and powerful moves. The crux involves a poor right hand sloper and a tenuous move to a left hand jug. Randy makes the crux look easy in the video, but there was plenty of blowing off the top. The SDS tacks on only a few moves, but manages to add considerably to the burn at the crux. Possible grades are v7 for the stand and v8 for the sit.

Randy Puro on Jet Li, v6

On Sunday, we ended up at the Bruce Lee boulder spotting Randy on a very inspiring send of Jackie Chan. It was the first time I'd ever seen anyone get established on that problem, much less do any moves. The surprises didn't end there, though. Just to the right of Bruce Lee is another problem that I had never noticed before, perhaps given the lack of any discernible holds. Jet Li is an excellent, albeit sharp, climb that starts on the slab on the right side of the Bruce Lee arete and ends on Bruce Lee. The start is the crux for both tall and short due to a dirth of good feet and the high top adds a little spice to the end. Here's another video of Randy (it's a good thing he's so photogenic) sending the problem.

-Lyn

1-18-08: Sent Arete

2008-01-18T14:27:00.000-08:00

Lily Nguyen climbing Sent Arete [v3].

Scott Chandler climbing Sent Arete [v3].

I found this fun problem about a year ago while I was wandering around the Sentinel area. The moves are really fun and the holds are cool. To find it, simply walk up the main path from the warm ups for a couple of minutes. You will pass a 5.9R arete on your left. Continue on the path for just a bit longer and the Sent Arete will be off in the trees on the right side. It has since been cleaned more, so dont let all the moss seen in the photos scare you off! Enjoy!

P.S. Also, while you are there check out the thin face to the left, which Raza climbed last spring.

-Scott

12-29-07: Dorian Grey

2007-12-29T15:39:00.001-08:00

Justin on Dorian Grey [v6/7/8?]

From the same evening that Sworn In [v2] went up came Dorian Grey [v6]. While I'm a little unsure of the grade, there is no question as to the quality of this boulder problem. This bulging prow is found on the boulder to the immediate right of The Fall Classic [v4]. This problem could be anything from v6-v8, but who really cares? Either way, begin sitting with an incut tooth and a small crimp, bust out some cool moves on interesting holds up to a tenuous mantle. Sweet!

-Justin

12-19-07: Diesel Power

2007-12-19T22:22:00.000-08:00

by tmedina

Randy Puro and Tim Medina on Diesel Power - FA [v10]

A handful of people have asked me to post something on Diesel Power so here you go. Randy cleaned this amazing line in the Crystals and asked me to help him figure it out. After three days of throwing our selves at the problem I unlocked a sequence and had success. This is the video footage of day three and the first assent of Diesel Power. A big thanks to Daniel Soto for capturing it all. Enjoy!

Here is Randy setting up to dyno for the ledge with Daniel spotting. The foot holds on this problem are small and make every move that much harder. Click on the image to get a close up.

To find Diesel Power from camp 4 you walk on the trail past the bathrooms about 300 meters and you will come to a huge boulder on your left. It is the center line up the boulder. The footage of the video is shot from the trail.

- TM

12-17-07: Bessey

2007-12-17T09:26:00.000-08:00

Tim Medina on Bessey [v8]

This gem was found by Mike & Ingar early this fall, right behind the warm-ups at the Ahwahnee boulders. The tiered landing appeared highly problematic at first appraisal, but after working out the moves, we discovered that all the hard climbing was at the start. Much to our relief, that fall puts you squarely onto the "safe" lower tier. The center section, with the much sketchier landing, has easier moves. The problem ends with a spicy, but not-too-hard, lip encounter.

Mike Madigan on Bessey [v8]

There is not too much beta for the bottom except - squeeze! The name of the problem should give you an idea of how much squeezing is involved since Bessey is a kind of wood-working clamp. To find it: look left and behind the Silent Spotter problem. It is also visible from the trail near the "No Fur" boulder.

-Raza

12-3-07: Pride

2007-12-03T08:50:00.000-08:00

Ethan Pringle on Pride [v9]

One of the better dynos in Yosemite lies off the beaten path down past Camp 4, in the Crystals. A thin, delicate face leads you to a huge dyno. The beta that worked for me was to dyno while using my right hand to keep pulling down even as I was flying through the air.

To get there: hike the Camp 4 campground trail past the campground and after about five minutes, the boulder will be just off the trail on your left. If you've reached the moat, you've gone too far.

-Raza

11-30-07: Sworn In

2007-11-30T00:26:00.000-08:00

John Vallejo making the first ascent of Sworn In [v2]

This time around John actually put in the work before snagging the first ascent. John also just passed the bar exam and was sworn in by the local federal judge here in Yosemite Valley (the judge's first). This problem is in Happy Isles and is a pleasant addition to the bouldering here and this one actually has a nice landing! Getting off this boulder isn't an easy walk-off however, "Down It" is about [v0] in its own right.

There were three other new problems added to the area tonight so stay tuned!

-Justin

11-23-07: Pine Box

2007-11-23T20:26:00.000-08:00

Justin Alarcon working the Pine Box [v11], photo by John Vallejo

I first discovered this boulder problem in September 2006 while participating in the Yosemite Climber Association's annual clean-up, the Yosemite Facelift. I volunteered to go up to the south face of Half Dome, along with several other chaps, to carry out nearly 700lbs. of cable and steel pipe that had been accidentally dropped from the top nearly 20 years ago. As we started heading up I couldn't help but notice the large boulders surrounding us. I slipped away from the group for a few minutes and stumbled upon what would become the Pine Box and I knew I had to come back.
Several months later, when it was a bit colder I returned. I knew from the beginning that the problem should start from a sitting position, but I couldn't manage the giant spans. I was able to do it from a several stand starts, the most obvious being about [v5 or v6]. I showed it to a few friends and soon the visiting Swede, Oskar Rennstam Rubbmark made the FA. The full line comes in at about [v11] although it seems harder for those on the shorter end of the spectrum. Enjoy, the line its fantastic!

-Justin

11-22-07: Justin's John-dis

2007-11-22T19:03:00.000-08:00

Vallejo making the crux reach on Jusin's John-dis [v3]

On a rest day last week I went up to Candyland with John Vallejo who wanted to climb The Diamond [v8]. I took the opportunity to clean the tall face directly opposite of it. On yet another rest day I found myself up there again, this time as spotter/photographer. John took this chance to go for the FA. Unfortunately, John has very little footwork and even less hip flexibility so he couldn't do it from the intended start. Instead, he began off a small boulder to the right. He was going to call it Justin's Jaundice until I pointed out the potential for a play on words. Nice work John!

Vallejo on the FA

-Justin

UPDATE 12-4-2007: The direct start goes! Tommy sent today and as usual did not suggest a name so I'm calling it, "It's All In the Hips". It adds a really tough rock-over move to this already great line.

11-21-07: Thriller

2007-11-21T08:46:00.000-08:00

Lyn Verinsky on Thriller [v10]

On Saturday, Lyn 'slayed the dragon' by climbing Thriller in great style. There was a pretty big crew trying the problem and the spotters enabled me to shoot some video. For those not familiar with Thriller, it is considered one of the best, if not the best problem in the Valley. It takes everything: strength, technique and determination!

Nice work Lyn!

-Raza

11-12-07: King Air

2007-11-12T09:07:00.000-08:00

Tommy on King Air [v10]

After a full day of bouldering the crew met up with Beth and Tommy for some evening action. We all wanted to try King Air and Tommy had several Mondo pads so the time was right. The first series of moves are harder than you think but if you can get to the ledge you can get a rest (if you have some endurance). After that comes a huge dyno that in the dark is a little deceptive. Tommy ends up going for a slopper that in the light you would obviously skip. Well like I said it was dark and the rest is history. Enjoy!

- TM

11-9-07: Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass

2007-11-09T08:05:00.000-08:00

Isaac on Don't Make Me Kick Your Ass [v9]

We took another day trip to the valley yesterday and met up with Isaac Caldiero visiting from Utah. Isaac has been killing it lately sending up to v13. We headed down to one of our many undone projects but none of us had any luck nailing it. Later in the night we met up with the ladies in camp 4 and Isaac dispatched Don’t Make Me Kick Your Ass in great style. The first move is very powerful and has sent many good climbers walking away scratching their heads. The rest isn’t easy but it definitely lightens up a bit and involves some fun healhooking, body tension and what else but a tricky mantle at the top. The problem is located on the back of the Columbia boulder.

- TM

11-7-07: King Cobra Sit

2007-11-07T09:28:00.000-08:00

Brendan on King Cobra Sit [v9]

After two crazy long days and nights of bouldering Courtney and Brendan were still going hard trying the true sit start of King Cobra (note: I hit the record button late). It is rumored that Yuji Hirayama got the FA on this but no one know's for sure. Anyway Brendan probably got the second assent and by lantern Sunday night. I am sure he was cooked when it when down making it even more impressive. The climb involves very technical movement, lots of shoulder flexibility and oh yeah some power. Good work Brendan!

Ps. Sorry again about the dog incident.

TM

11-5-07: Rabbit Habit

2007-11-05T17:40:00.000-08:00

Courtney on Rabbit Habit [v8]

As some of you know Courtney is back in Cali after a recent trip back east were she got engaged to one Randy Puro. Now that she is back where else would she rather be then bouldering in Yosemite with her peeps. Here she is sending Rabbit Habit for the first time in supreme style. In typical Yosemite sandbag fashion Courtney thought Rabbit Habit should be downgraded to v6 with the new beta. LOL...

Rabbit Habit is located at the LeConte Cave boulder. The first move involves a huge/cramped 5ft dyno to a slopper. So far shorter people have been stumped until the ladies unlocked a small crimper, which allowed them to readjust their right hand to an undercling and then make the reach. It’s not over after that so don’t give up the ship. The top is tenuous and a little reachy. Good work Courtney!

This is also the finish of Narcissus [v11?]. More can be found on that climb here.
http://betabase.blogspot.com/2006/07/7-22-06-narcissus.html

- TM

10-31-07: Shiver Me Timbers

2007-10-31T11:21:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Shiver Me Timbers [v6]

Last spring, Lyn sent the classic Camp 4 boulder problem Shiver Me Timbers. It's a little reachy for shorter folks, but Lyn managed to send anyway. After doing the tricky face an easy mantel leads to the commiting slab top-out. It's not uncommon to see people hanging out on the juggy foot for 5 minutes to build up their courage. Lyn hiked the final slab in her usual style, another classic in the bag.

-Raza

P.S. Happy Halloween

10-28-07 Jacob's Ladder

2007-10-28T23:28:00.000-07:00

Mike Madigan on Jacob's Ladder [v6?]

Check out this great problem put up last year by Jacob (from Fresno). It is located just up the hill from the Titanic boulder in Camp 4. We initially started the climb on the lower of the two big rails (they are right of Rebekah's right heel), but later discovered that Jacob originally climbed the problem from a lower rail that we were using for our feet! There is also a cool right-hand undercling start that is a lot of fun. The excellent steep moves coupled with an incredibly fun rock-over mantel make this problem a must-try. Below you can see Rebekah working out the tricky heel hook move. Don't be put off by the slightly dirty slab topout.

Rebekah Taggart on Jacob's Ladder [v6?]

-Lyn

10-26-07: Motorcade

2007-10-26T11:49:00.000-07:00

Motorcade - Raza [v9] by tmedina
Raza on Motorcade [v9]

Another notable send came Saturday when Paul climbed Motorcade. Paul found this gem last year so getting to the summit has been a long time coming. The three angled rails make for some great slopper pulling with a thrilling mantel at the top. Good work Raza!

More can be found on this climb below:
http://betabase.blogspot.com/2006/12/12-10-06-motorcade.html

-TM

10-23-07: The Fall Classic

2007-10-23T00:26:00.000-07:00

Alan Moore cheers on John Vallejo as he sends The Fall Classic [v4]

Another new line up at Happy Isles. I'd walked past this many times and never really gave it a second look. For some reason when I was up there on Friday it caught my eye, and a good thing too. This problem begins on two pinches under the small roof. I campused the first move to a pair of good edges, but you could probably hike your foot up really high to start if that's more your style. The rest is pretty obvious. My first sports obsession was baseball and now is the time of year Major League Baseball holds its World Series, otherwise known as the Fall Classic. It just seemed to fit.

-Justin

10-22-07: Prowess

2007-10-22T02:18:00.000-07:00

Lyn on Prowess [v7]

I thought everyone would enjoy this. Lyn nabbed her first send of Prowess Saturday night, that's right in the dark! The top out is super sketchy when there is light so I can only imagine how scared she must have felt in the dark. Reverse isn't an option when Lyn is climbing. Listen to the audio at the end for some good entertainment. It was awesome.

- TM

10-16-07: Midnight Lighting

2007-10-16T07:04:00.000-07:00

Mike on Midnight Lighting [v8]

Paul had a dream that Mike would send Midnight Lighting and Thriller in one day. Thriller didn’t go down but Midnight Lighting did in great style. Here is a video of Mike bagging the classic for the first time.

- TM

10-14-07: Atom Smasher

2007-10-14T14:38:00.000-07:00

Raza on Atom Smasher [v2]

It had to be something big for my first post here on BetaBase. Fortunately, I had the perfect problem in mind. On September 20th, following a day of light rain I was excited to head up to Happy Isles to try some projects I had cleaned a few days earlier. Unfortunately, nearly everything was still wet...except for the tallest thing there. Truthfully, it was still a bit damp, but I was antsy I did not want to wait. It is probably only V2 or so, but the crux is the last move so bring some gusto and a big crash pad. Here is Paul contemplating the last move.

-Justin

Raza topping out Atom Smasher [v2]

10-10-07: Castle Dyno

2007-10-10T08:59:00.000-07:00

Raza on a fun dyno at the Castle Boulder

I'm mainly putting this post up to try out the new video feature that is available for the blog. I don't shoot that many videos, but it will be fun to mix things up a bit.

-Raza

10-7-07: Fort Ross / Salt Point

2007-10-07T00:06:00.000-07:00

The view of the ocean from the Ft. Ross Boulder

Before we got fully into Valley season, I wanted to put a post from a summer trip up the coast. I hadn't been to the Fort Ross Boulder in about 10 years. It was fun to hang out at the beach and climb on a great boulder. Every problem is good! It can't hurt that you're hanging out at a beautiful beach the whole time. We spent the day climbing with Tim, Patti and Ethan.

Ethan on Waterfall Crack [v3r] and Lyn on the cool problem left of Waterfall crack [v6]

We later headed up the road to check out Salt Point. Ethan hiked the low (?) start to the Waterfall Crack, which is graded v3r. I'm guessing the 'r' comes from the swamp foot you'll get if you fall in the water!

The unnamed arete to the left is also super classic. You kinda think you'd fall off the cliff to the left, but that fall never materializes. The rock in this area seemed to be very grit stone-like, not that I've ever been to the Peak District...

-Raza

9-10-07: The Castle Update

2007-09-11T00:01:00.000-07:00

The Castle Boulder posting has been expanded significantly, check it out:

http://betabase.blogspot.com/2005/02/castle-boulder.html

-Raza

6-23-07: Linear

2007-05-29T19:43:00.000-07:00

Paul Barraza on Linear [V9?]

If bearing down on painful, razor-like crimps is your cup of tea, then don't miss Linear, the problem that climbs the left side of the big face on the aptly named Ahwahnee boulder. Located amidst the warm-up problems in the Ahwahnee area, it's a line that has often been attempted given its obvious and cool start holds. Interest wanes, however, once we're reminded once again of the grievous and nearly non-existent nature of the holds following the start. Despite this, on a warm day last March, Paul figured out a sequence that hits the left arete after some hard crimp moves. The climb finishes by following the arete and some poor right hand-holds to the highest point of the boulder. The line heading straight up the face to the highest point, remains a project. Excellent skin and strong fingers will be prerequisites for sending the straight-up version. Oh yes, and good footwork wouldn't hurt, either.

-Lyn

06-23-07: Luna Love Good

2007-05-16T09:00:00.000-07:00

Luna Lovegood [v4-6?]

For some reason, Paul got all up in arms when Randy chose to name this boulder problem Luna Lovegood. Perhaps it was the Harry Potter reference that offended or it may have been the fact that the name really doesn't make any sense, which actually makes it the perfect name for this rather odd boulder problem. Situated in the heart of Camp 4, a stone's throw away from the Dominator, this problem came into existence as a bit of a joke. The start holds on the right side of the boulder are quite obvious and large, but the line forces you up and left over a very unappetizing landing and a potential fall into a tree. Of course, given these qualities, Randy couldn't wait to climb it. After some preliminary attempts that went something like this: "crap, who cleaned this thing! It's totally dirty up here! I'm coming down - do you have me?" we were inspired to scramble to the top via the slab and give it a proper cleaning. Once that was done, everyone scampered to the top with a minimum of cursing.

This problem is really quite fun, with friendly holds (granite slopers!) and a little spice. The very top is relatively easy, especially for Yosemite, but a few large pads and some good spotters go a long way to improve one's confidence. (Start standing on the right side of the boulder on the right side of the arete, climb up and left. You will end up on the left side of the arete, topping out by squeezing between the big boulder to your right and the tree to your left. Now, doesn't that sound like a good time?)

-Lyn

05-08-07: Step-Child

2007-05-08T09:41:00.000-07:00

Randy Puro on Step Child [v10]

Since summer is just around the corner, it's time to post about this sit-start to Gym Fag Jiggle (a truly awful name). Situated on the right side of the White Lines boulder, Step Child starts on a bad right hand crimp and a left hand sprag that's worse. Try really hard and you might be able to pull off the ground. If you are having a really good day, you might hit the "decent" edge up and left. Paul did this problem in October of '05 while he very patiently waited for me to get my butt up the problem to the left. Of course, it very well may have been done before then, so please write in if you know this problem under a different name.

-Lyn

05-15-07: Chocolate Bunny

2007-05-08T09:33:00.000-07:00

Lyn Verinsky on Chocolate Bunny [v6]

Sloper, slopers, and a few more slopers thrown in just for fun. I climbed this insta-classic on the Lifeline boulder on (go figure) Easter Sunday a few weeks ago. The line had remained on the overlooked side of the Lifeline boulder, just to the right of the down climb. Start on a low rail, to the left of the tree, head up slopers and left & up at the lip. A fun mini-slab gets you to the top of the down climbing groove. The character of the climb is much lighter than the tall and proud climbs around to the left, hence the name.

Scott Chandler on Chocolate Bunny [v6]

Lyn Verinsky on Gravitas [v7]

There is another line to the right of the tree. Gravitas [v7] starts on a right-facing hold below the lip, and heads up through a tricky lip encounter. Initially I head far left after tackling the lip, but then Lyn pioneered a better finish that heads straight up on a perfect slab.

Two more problems are just around the corner to the right: an easy but very height dependent ramp to big edge called Super Tramp [v2] and a variation that heads directly left on crimps and then up the lip called Sideways [v8]

To find these problems, head to the Lifeline / Flatline problems and walk around to the right just past the down climb.

-Raza

5-7-07: Bonobo Hello

2007-04-30T23:58:00.000-07:00

Scott Chandler swinging like an ape on Bonobo Hello [v7/8]

This would be a boulder problem that you would file under "incredible lone boulder". Located between the the John Muir trail head parking and Glacier Point, this boulder problem leaves you wondering how it ended up here all by itself.

Bonobo Hello starts on two good hold under the lip and heads straight for a triangular jug. After some ape-like swinging, good holds and a very slopey top-out await. Another variation (called Pimp Chimp) starts at the good hold on the face that is down and right of the triangle hold (behind the tree in the picture) and goes at around v5.

To get to the problem, park as close as you can to Glacier Point Apron in the John Muir trail head parking lot. Head straight towards the apron and you can't miss the problem. This area, incidentally, is also where the Fire Falls used to land.

-Raza

5-1-07: Holy Crap! (King Air)

2007-04-30T23:55:00.000-07:00

Lyn looking at King Air, v10

The first thing most people say when they realize that someone has bouldered the line is: Holy Crap! The word has it that on April 21st, Dean Potter got the FA of a tall & scary line on the LeConte boulder. We were climbing near by and saw the crash pads set up and later found out from Tommy that he had done it that day.

Guessing from the chalk and tick marks, the line starts to the right of Lyn on a shelf and climbs up and left, finishing up pretty much right above Lyn's head (just a little to the left.) He called it King Air and I believe graded it v10, but you can correct me on that.

-Raza

P.S. There are two aid climbs (bolt ladders) that people learn to aid on. This boulder problem is TALLER than both of them!

4-11-07: Sidewinder

2007-03-27T08:33:00.000-07:00

Raza on Sidewinder [v7]

Junior (aka Scott Chandler) has been actively searching out new boulders and he found a gem over in Curry Village. I though it was more like v8/9 but maybe I'm just old. It's one of those problems where all the holds are facing left and you are doing everything you can do to go right. The footholds are basically the spots of granite that were cleaned off, so trying to use your feet is tricky as well. To top it of there is a hard mantel at the top. Normally you might throw a heel over, but the landing makes that way too scary. I ended up using Junior's beta: a no foot mantle and dyno right hand back to a jug! A crazy finish to a crazy cool problem.

The problem lies in Curry Village 'West'. Park as west a possible and follow these GPS coordinates:

37º 44.183 N, 119º 34.445 W

-Raza

3-5-07: Heart of Darkness

2007-01-30T09:14:00.000-08:00

Randy on Heart of Darkness [v9]

This isn't the greatest photo, but it was from the night that the problem went up. At the end of an already fun climbing day we headed down to try a problem that Matt Wilder and Noah Kaufman had cleaned. They were really excited about the climb and it was easy to see why: just enough holds on a gently overhanging wall.

The most amazing part is that it was right off the road down past the 140/120 junction. How was it possible that every boulderer that ever drove down 140 could have missed this obvious gem? After a while of while of figuring out the beta by lantern and headlamps I managed to get the FA with a key slopey backstep.

To find the problem, head down just past the 120/140 junction. Park at the first pull out on the left. Walk back up the road about 100 feet and the problem will be on your left.

-Raza

4-2-07: Liceberg

2007-01-30T09:11:00.000-08:00

Lyn Verinsky on Liceberg [v7]

In the warm up area of the Ahwahnee's there are a number of fun problems. You can start on heinous slopers to start the easy dihedral that you can see to the right (that's called Iceberg). Or you can tackle the bulge which is called Liceberg (for Left Iceberg and a pun on the classic traverse in Font called l'iceberg). It's silly but fun.

Finding the problem is easy. It's just to the right of Funky Chicken in the Ahwahnee's.

-Raza

2-25-07: Ringtail

2007-01-30T09:06:00.000-08:00

Randy Puro on Ringtail [v11]

On the same boulder, but to the left of Downpressor lies another line that for a while looked to futuristic. A series of slopey rails on a steep face lead to a blank looking top-out. The main reason Randy and I tried it was because the temps were so sick in January. Eventually an intricate sequence was teased from the boulder and before the the weather had a chance to warm up, we both sent.

And of course, we called it Ringtail because while we were working on it, a ringtail (who knew there are ringtails in the valley?) came to visit us by peeking its head through the jumble of boulders near the base.

-Raza